From the Archives: How To build a custom exhaust

Josh Allison walks us through creating a custom exhaust here.
 

Build Custom Handlebars with Josh Allison

Check it out here.

How to Bore and Hone Cylinders By Panhead Jim

Whether you are punching your 883 out to a 1200, or rebuilding a clapped-out Shovelhead, you are going to need your cylinders properly bored and honed. On the surface, the concept of boring and honing cylinders is pretty straightforward, but things get tricky when it comes to the actual execution. To do the job right, you need a variety of expensive machines, precision measuring devices and the knowledge and experience to correctly use them all. Even though it is unlikely that most of you reading this will ever bore and hone your own cylinders, it’s always important to know the proper procedure, so you can ask the right questions when you are looking for a reputable machine shop and be able to give your machinist the right information to do their job. For this article, I traveled down to Bill’s Cycle Salvage in Jacksonville, NC, and let their lead mechanic Dave take me through the entire process.

Back To The Basics: Fork Oil

Article by Panhead Jim - When it comes to changing fluids in your chopper, the engine oil and gear oil get all the glory. People spend hours debating what types are better, how often to change, etc., etc., but when was the last time you thought about changing your fork oil? Although not as critical as the others, fork oil is essential to a properly functioning front end and on a chopper, which is usually your only piece of suspension. Since my chopper project isn’t to the point that it even needs fork oil, I’m going to demonstrate changing the fork oil on my old ’64 Panhead. Read more.

How to make a rear fender

Check here to learn how to make a custom rear fender. Big thanks to Josh for sharing his knowledge!

Panhead Jim covers The 30 Second VL Oil Change

Before 1936, Harley-Davidson motors operated using a “total loss” oiling system. This meant that the oil was never recirculated back to the oil tank and instead it just ended up on the ground after going through the motor. It does pass through the primary to keep the primary chain lubed on the way out, but every ounce of oil you pour into the tank eventually ends up as a trail of drops and drips that leave a greasy trail back to your motorcycle.

Even with oil constantly belching out of the motor, the factory service manual recommends that you change the oil about every 750 miles. In my experience you never reach 750 miles between oil changes, especially if you are using modern oil control rings on your pistons. While using oil control rings sounds like a good improvement, it allows oil to build up in the crankcase which you then must drain more frequently since too much oil creates extra drag on the flywheels. Knowing that changing the oil would be a constant maintenance headache, Harley’s engineers did have the foresight to design the crankcase with a built-in drain to make this a quick and easy job. Located on the left rear side of the engine, a spring-loaded oil valve allows you to drain the oil with just the push of a button. Read more.

Tech Thursday!

 Click here to learn how to make a custom seat with Josh Allison!

Back to the Basics: Fork Oil

PANHEAD JIM GETS BACK TO BASICS WITH HIS LATEST HOW-TO. CHECK IT OUT HERE!

Blast from the past - How to make a fender

Josh Allison shows us how to make a fender! Tap here to view

New LOWBROW LEARNINS

 Click here to learn!

Cycle Monster Book Of How-To

Volume One and Two are available now! Click here to get yours!

New LOWBROW LEARNINS

Our friends at Lowbrow Customs teamed up with the ever-talented Cycle Monster for an ongoing series Lowbrow Learnins. Enjoy!

Tech Tips: Biltwell AlumiCore

Biltwell AlumiCore grips are available in two styles to fit select make and model-year Harley-Davidson motorcycles: Throttle-by-Wire (TBW) and Dual Cable. AlumiCore grips will not fit any other non-Harley Original Equipment or aftermarket throttle or hand control. If you have never disassembled or serviced the hand controls on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle, we recommend consulting a professional mechanic for this procedure. Harley throttles and hand controls are precise components, and assembling them incorrectly can lead to serious headaches.

These instructions show how to install TBW AlumiCore grips, but the steps and procedures are similar for Dual-Cable hand controls. These tips DO NOT show you how to remove your old grips. If you don't know how to disassemble the hand controls on your motorcycle, DO NOT try to install AlumiCore grips—consult a service professional to do the job for you.
INSTALLING ALUMICORE GRIPS

STEP 1: Carefully disassemble the left- and right-side hand control clamshells that hold the old grips on your motorcycle. Remove old grips and clean both bar ends with contact cleaner and a ScotchBrite pad to remove dirt, grease, glue and other debris. If your handlebars feature aftermarket bar-end attachments (mirrors or sliders, for example), remove these pieces—they will not work with AlumiCore grips. Slide the left (clutch side) AlumiCore grip onto the bar end until it bottoms out against the handlebar.

STEP 2: Capture the left grip's locating flange inside the clamshells, making sure both halves of the hand control assembly engage tightly with each other around the inside end of the grip. Make sure the buttons inside the clamshells are seated properly, and that the clamshells don't pinch any of the wires inside. Reinstall and tighten the bolts that secure the clamshell assembly to the handlebar.

STEP 3: Insert the wedge mechanism of the left (clutch side) end cap assembly into the hole on the end of the AlumiCore grip, making sure the end plug is completely seated against the beveled end of the grip's aluminum core. Hold the end cap firmly in one hand and tighten the Allen bolt until the wedge cinches tightly inside the handlebar.

STEP 4: Slide the right (throttle side) AlumiCore grip tube onto the bar end, making sure the forged aluminum gear interface inside the grip tube engages completely with the end on the TBW mechanism. If you're installing dual-cable AlumiCore grips, please refer to a Harley service manual for the correct make and model-year of your motorcycle. Harley-Davidson dual-cable throttles vary by specification and model year, and require fine-tuning after assembly for safe operation.

STEP 5: Capture the right grip's alignment flange inside the clamshell assembly. Hold the clamshells tightly around the alignment flange on the grip and twist the throttle to confirm smooth operation. If the grip twists tightly or does not snap back smoothly, something may be pinched or misaligned inside the clamshell assembly. Open it up and double-check cables, wires, buttons, and other internal components to make sure nothing is out of place. When you're confident the AlumiCore throttle grip functions correctly, reinstall and tighten the bolts that secure the clamshell to the handlebar.

STEP 6: Put a drop of blue LocTite or medium-strength thread compound on the threads of the recessed Allen cap screw for the throttle grip end cap and screw it into the end of the right AlumiCore grip. Hold the end cap firmly in one hand and gently tighten the bolt with an Allen wrench—do not over-tighten.

Step 7: Before riding, double-check all the hardware that secures your hand controls and grips to the handlebar. Check the Allen bolts that secure the end caps on your AlumiCore grips. If the rubber sleeves on your AlumiCore grips moved on the knurled aluminum tubes during assembly, gently twist and pull the sleeves so their molded flanges touch the inside edge of the end cap and grip flange.

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REPLACING ALUMICORE RUBBER SLEEVES

The rubber sleeves on Biltwell AlumiCore grips are injection molded with Thermoplastic Vulcanizate (TPV) rubber. This pliant yet rugged synthetic material is soft enough to ride bare-handed, but tough enough to provide exceptional durability, even under extreme riding conditions. When the comfort sleeves on your AlumiCore grips show signs of wear from friction or damage due to heat, moisture or sunlight, replace them with Biltwell brand AlumiCore grip sleeves ONLY—do not try to use other grips for this purpose.

Step 1: Remove both AlumiCore grip end caps by loosening their mounting screws with a 3/16" Allen wrench. The Allen bolt/end cap assembly on the right (throttle side) grip will detach completely from the throttle tube. Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the left (clutch side) end cap bolt only enough to allow the internal wedge assembly to slide out of the handlebar. Carefully cut off the old grip sleeve from the right (throttle side) AlumiCore grip. Repeat this step on the left (clutch side) grip.

Step 2: Carefully clean the exterior surfaces of both AlumiCore grip tubes with contact cleaner and a ScotchBrite pad to remove old glue and rubber debris. Do not spray contact cleaner directly into the end of either AlumiCore grip tube—doing so could make the left grip slip on the handlebar and/or compromise throttle performance.

Step 3: Spray a quick blast of aerosol WD-40 into the open end of one new grip sleeve. Wipe any dripping fluid or overspray off the TPV grip sleeve before moving to the next step…

Step 4: Quickly slide the open end of the lubricated grip sleeve onto the end of the AlumiCore grip tube. A firm twisting and pulling motion may be necessary to seat the new grip sleeve flush against the knurled grip tube's inside flange. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the remaining grip sleeve.

Step 5: Insert the 1/2-inch-long Allen screw through the right (throttle side) end cap and apply a drop of blue Loc-Tite or medium-strength thread compound to the threads. Screw the end cap assembly into the right-side grip tube and tighten the Allen screw.

Step 6: Insert the clutch side wedge/end cap assembly into the end of the left handlebar, making sure the inside of the end cap stops firmly against the grip tube. Hold the left end cap tightly in one hand and tighten the Allen bolt.

If you hate dry instructional text and boring spec photography, we've created two videos that summarize both installations processes right here:

Get yours here.

How to Make A Custom Seat by Cry Baby Cycles

ChopCult contributor Josh Allison walks us through the process of creating a custom seat. Check it out here.

How to make a Springer with Cry Baby Cycles

I am thrilled to announce that Josh Allison from Cry Baby Cycles has joined the ChopCult family and will be sending in tech articles from time to time. Josh is known for his meticulous metalwork and for creating most of the parts for his builds. Here's the first of many tech articles heading your way. Welcome to the family Josh! -Lisa

Metal Shaping Class By Keino Cycles

Here's a great opportunity to learn metalshaping from one of the best, Keino Sasaki. Keino has graciously offered a $50.00 savings to our community by using the code: chopcult when signing up.

Here's what you can expect:

My basic class is focused on the basic fundamentals of metal shaping that will get you going with the solid understanding of the basic techniques with basic tools. 

Class contents

Stretch/Shrink/Planish

How, Why, Comparison by tool contacts differences and pros and cons.

Demonstration of basic techniques with different tools.

Several Hands-on time throughout the day

Also during the class, I will introduce little more advanced techniques just to show how basic techniques and principles can be applied to different use at the appropriate topic. I am working level 2 of metal shaping class, it's just matter of organizing study materials and appropriate approaches for you understand better. level 2 class coming soon by spring 2017.

Tools/Equipment

I will go through each tool and equipment what /when/how to use.

Aviation snips,electric shear, and beverly shear.
Mallets and shot bag.
Body hammers and dollies.
T-dollies/Post dollies
Shrinker/Stretcher
Tucking fork/Wood stump

Planishing Hammer
English wheel with steel/rubber wheel
20-page textbook that I wrote

The class starts 9am till about 5pm at my shop 12 Van Dyke St Brooklyn NY 11231.

The class is limited to 4 people.

2 people share 1 workstation that consists planishing hammer, set of body hammers, 2 sets of mallets and shot bag. a pair of aviation snips. Small for more one-on-one time with each person. I believe the best way for you learn your skill is you spend time doing them. I will guide you to the right direction with my simplified principles.

Basically, this is the class that I wish I had a chance to attend when I started to shape metal.

I plan to host this class once a month along with level 2 class I am working on. Check back often or sign up on a mailing list for the updated schedule.

Thanks,

-Keino

Website /  Sign up / Facebook / Instagram